Designer Dissection: Marc Jacobs
Written by: REAGEN CALEIA
There have been multiple names within fashion that did not follow the guidelines of ‘watch what you say’ - Designers that fumbled precaution and failed to hold themself in a proper and respectable manner.
Take the infamous John Galliano - We have all heard the controversy he was faced with; or Demna from Balenciaga and the interesting AD campaigns that were released back in November 23.
The list of names that got caught red handed in call-out culture can go on longer than you can recite the number of female creative directors within Kering. Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander Wang, Calvin Klein and Gosha Rubchinskiy - just to name a few. Despite the designers' names above facing ‘cancelation’ and ‘boycotting,’ a small number of said names managed to get back on the horse of respectability, whether that was help from a celebrity or not, they still re-entered our homes without resistance.
Just like Wang or Balenciaga, two brands that were cancelled but let through the backdoor of the industry a few months after their ‘hiatus,’ Marc Jacobs had a similar experience with his eponymous brand. From Gucci to Louis to Heaven and back to square one, Jacobs had a rocky rise and fall. The designer has faced several ‘scandals’ that have cost him of his own reputability as well as his brands growth, whether that is financial or popularity.
Marc Jacobs is synonymous within the world of Avant Garde fashion - He brought a twist to streetwear from the moment he left parsons and joined Perry Ellis in 1985, constantly bending rules and staying anti- adult and anti-slick as much as he was allowed. The designer is one of the few influential American designers that paved the way of western fashion, between Calvin Klein, Tom Ford and Halston, Jacobs triumphed. Between Perry Ellis and his transition as the new head of Louis Vuitton in the late nineties (A Position that was to propel him into the highest of heights - greatly sorted by the lady in charge, Anna Wintour), Jacobs was building up his very own label, Marc Jacobs - by Marc Jacobs. They were showered in compliments and accolades whilst on their journey to the top, Women’s designer of the year (1992, Council of American fashion) and the Perry Ellis gold thimble award - to name a couple.
Jacobs brought new life into the then French trunk makers, but now a fully-fledged high-fashion label with collections from ready-to-wear down to beauty. The Designer manipulated and carefully boosted the fashion house, bringing in life-long partnerships and an immense spike of profits - changing the way Parisians viewed luxury with his approach to sportswear. Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton was all the craze, Jacobs knew what a woman needed and wanted… He created for the deluxe not for the luxury, he was a powerhouse at his prime. However, this was all to change when the then reigning designer let his erratic behaviour land in the hands of the public.
After a staggering 16-year hold of Louis Vuitton, Jacobs put the monogram down and walked away from the label to focus on his own brand. Though through his great achievements and efforts at bringing such buzz back to the industry, Jacobs had a turbulent history of minor issues that raised concern - from poignant drug addiction and substance abuse making its way into headlines to nudity on social media, Jacobs’s ability was questioned. Not only were there complications within their personal life, but Jacobs also seemed to have lost his magic - He no longer knew what a woman needed or wanted, Though the designer admitted to not ‘knowing what today looked like’ Jacobs refused to allow the new age of social media into his bubble.
As a result of the designers decline of creative thinking and rise of personal complications, Marc Jacobs - by Marc Jacobs faced a rapid decline in sales. In Effort to stay afloat Jacobs introduced two new lines that were to increase accessibility at a lower cost to the main line, Heaven - by Marc Jacobs and Marc - by Marc Jacobs. Two lines created to bring more profit for the brand, they were both targeted towards the younger and fresher consumer. Put out at lower prices and youthful designs, Marc - by Marc Jacobs equated to an outstanding 80% of the brands equity. Despite the journey of his decline to the new line bringing in such great profit, the designer announced Marc - by Marc Jacobs was too close. Whilst the ordeal of closing down the one part of his brand that kept him afloat, Jacobs had several suits filed against him for alleged ‘plagiarism.’
Things were to get worse for the once designer of the ages when a poor judgement of styling was to occur during his Spring/ Summer 2017 collection. Jacobs sparked heavy-handed controversy when white models were seen wearing faux dreadlocks on the runway. People flocked to social media to call-out the designer for cultural appropriation. The hairstylist for the show explained it was an intended reference to the club kid scene of the 90’s, but once again the public did not appreciate this explanation. Jacob swiftly responded to the backlash he faced, taking to social media to say “I respect and am inspired by people and how they look. I don’t see race or colour - I see people.” However, Quickly that comment was deleted from all platforms and was replaced with a new comment that incited increased anger across the public, Jacobs apologised “for the lack of sensitivity unintentionally expressed by my brevity” He then carried on to state that “Of course I do ‘see’ colour, but I do not discriminate. That is a fact” - After the designers backtracking and lack of awareness, Jacobs carried on further to state his upset towards the reaction and claims it was an attack on his freedom of speech and artistic expression.
“All who cry ‘cultural appropriation’ or whatever nonsense about any race or skin colour wearing their hair in any particular style or manner - funny how you don’t criticise women of colour for straightening their hair.”
Jacobs continued saying:
“I’ve never felt that I had to live my life thinking ‘Well, I shouldn’t do this because somebody might take offence.’ That’s just sad.” says the designer to conclude the disaster of his S/S 17 collection.
Marc Jacobs was quickly snubbed as ‘condescending’,’ ignorant’ and a ‘has-been.’ The debate of cultural appropriation is ever-growing with celebrities such as Kylie Jenner and Justin Bieber seen having hairstyles that fall under the category of cultural appropriation.
Now fast forward to the current day, Jacobs has become the sensation he was once back when he left Parsons in eighty-four. From the fast paced rise of his career to the consistent dips Marc Jacobs dug himself, The designer has made his way back into our hands and wardrobes - The turnaround success of the brand is major within the LVMH group, bringing in a profit of £258,000 in 2022 compared to the striking loss of £51,000 the year before. All thanks to the reconstructing of the label with staff cuts, reduction of runway collections and the continuation of the youth-driven and lower priced Heaven line. Jacobs has called in on celebrities to market the labels products and finally welcomed the new age of technology. Jacobs has cashed out on signature daisy perfumes and the viral Tote bag that was first released in 2019.
Though Marc Jacobs is back in business with the revival of his eponymous brand - It is to note that all mistakes and inconsistencies were quickly washed with all waters and dismissed. The designer received a second chance for the third time within the industry. Was this down to his honesty and acknowledgment of his insensitivity - plainly, yes it was. The fashion industry has slowly become opposed to call-out culture. Although Jacobs was let back into the industry, His recovery did not come as easy as Alexander Wangs, Wang’s controversy was in relation to his personal life not his label - Jacobs is on the other side of the fence. Call-out culture, despite being a by-product of capitalization and consumerism, is here to serve as a reminder to those to take precaution, Face the music and move on. Jacobs in his case faced the music for a lengthy amount of time and faced the consequences of his poor actions.
